Holy week Malaga

Now that Easter has arrived, many people are the privileged who have a few days to be able to travel and enjoy these holidays in many different ways. Perhaps you are one of those who love the processions, the music bands, the smell of incense and being on the street until dawn, or maybe you are one of those who prefer to go to the beach to relax and have a beer at a beach bar. Be that as it may, you will be able to find all this in Malaga, especially in the imminent Holy Week.

This is what you will see:

Palm Sunday

The first thing to know is that in Malaga, in the processions are carried the so-called thrones. They are enormous and many bearers are needed to carry their great weight. This is something of which the people of Malaga is very proud.
On this first day, if you don’t want to get up too early, you can go to the Alameda at midday to see the Pollinica (which represents the entrance of Jesus to Jerusalem on top of a donkey). The Alameda is the nerve centre of Malaga’s Semana Santa (Holy Week), so at almost any hour of the day you will find a procession. If you don’t want to be caught trying to cross the street (almost impossible) decide well what you want to do before the Nazarenes appear on the horizon.

In the afternoon, if you want to escape a little from the crowd, you can always go to the area of Fuente Olletas, near the La Rosaleda football stadium, until you reach the Obrador de Confitería Tejeros, the centre of operations for the typical “locas” of Malaga. And no, they are not madwomen, but some puff pastries, cream and yolk that during this week have the shape of a capirote.

Holy Monday

It’s a good day for a little sightseeing. For example, go see the Cathedral, the Alcazaba and the Roman Theatre. After eating and resting you can always go to “visit” the famous tavern El Pimpi, winery in front of the Roman Theatre, full of wine barrels signed by many celebrities (the walls have a great sample of photographs of characters like Antonio Banderas, Pablo Alborán or Antonio Gala among many others), where you can drink a good sweet wine from Malaga, the famous muscatel.

After dinner, around half past eleven at night, Larios Street, the city’s main shopping street, will be crowded because everyone will be trying to see the main throne of Malaga’s Holy Week, which bears the figure of El Cautivo. This is more than devotion, in fact it is the longest procession of the whole week.

Holy week Malaga

Holy Tuesday

Perhaps you are exhausted from so much procession, or more than anything, so much bustle. It can be a good day to do some native life. You can visit the Mercado de Atarazanas (Shipyard Market), and have some tapas accompanied by a Victoria beer. If the wine from the previous night wasn’t enough for you, you can go, a few metres away in the Alameda, to the Antigua Casa de Guardia and have a few sips of the famous Pajarete wine.

At ten o’clock in the evening the procession of the Virgen de las Penas (Virgin of Sorrows) leaves with a beautiful mantle made with natural flowers that are designed and made by the gardeners of the Town Hall.

Holy Wednesday

There are several museums that you have to visit before the end of the week.

In the morning you can visit, for example, the Automobile Museum in the Antigua Tabacalera building. This museum houses a collection of hundreds of cars from all eras, of which the guide will tell you about their curiosities, show you how they work, or even let you mount them. The museum also contains a Haute Couture fashion collection that will complement your visit. Then you can take a stroll along the promenade until you get back to the centre.

After resting and strolling along the Paseo del Parque you can reach Muelle 1, visit the Pompidou Centre and reach the Faro del Puerto, which in Malaga is called La Farola.

And in the afternoon, there will be two processions that you cannot miss:

One is that of the Virgin of La Paloma, so called because in 1925 someone threw flowers and released some pigeons at the passage of this virgin and one of the pigeons landed in the hand of the image and remained there all the way until its confinement in the Church. Since then, the image carries a pigeon in its hand and pigeons are released as it passes through the streets of Malaga. A “privileged” place to see it is the so-called Tribuna de los Pobres (Tribune of the Poor), a staircase at the entrance to Calle Carretería.

The other essential procession of this day is that of Jesús El Rico, which you can see from the Plaza del Obispo, in front of the Cathedral, where a prisoner will also be released. This is due to the fact that in 1759, during a plague epidemic, the prisoners escaped from the prison to take out in procession the image of Jesus El Rico. At the end of the parade, they returned to the prison and the plague began to subside.

Holy week Malaga

Holy Thursday

In Malaga, life stops when the Legionnaires arrive, and everyone goes crazy to see them take the throne, sing their famous song or throw their weapons while they are marching. That’s why you can’t miss them. You’ll have to see them sometime during the day.

At 10.30 a.m. the ship of the Navy arrives at the Port of Málaga, the most veteran in service, and the Compañía de Honores del Tercio ‘D. Juan de Austria’ I of La Legión, will disembark.

Later, at 12.00 they will transfer to the Christ of the Good Death or Christ of Mena (figure of Jesus that really reproduces the original one of Pedro de Mena, destroyed during the Second Republic), until the house brotherhood, where it will be placed in his throne. At this time the legionnaires will sing the song el Novio de la Muerte (Death’s Bridegroom).

In the evening this procession will start, so you will end up learning yes or yes who is the bridegroom of death. You can see it for example in Calle Carretería, for a change.

Holy Friday

If you haven’t already, you’ll have to try some cascaruo. They are lemons that are sold in street stalls, with very thick shells, which after being peeled leaves the white part next to the pulp visible. Now all you have to do is add a little salt and go the mouth.

The procession you can’t miss today is the Servitas in Dos Aceras street. It is different from everything else you have seen, at least in the south of Spain. It is a throne that carries an image of the virgin crying, without a mantle, without canopy, without gold, without light, even without sound. Yes, yes, without sound, even people shut up completely, when she is passing so everything is quite. Without a doubt, it’s a fantastic experience to live.

Holy Saturday

You can’t leave Malaga without visiting Gibralfaro Castle, going up the stairs to the viewpoint and taking a picture of the port and all Malaga center. Then you can walk along the Paseo de Reding seeing its wonderful mansions, the Gran Hotel Miramar (recently renovated, in 1926 was inaugurated by Alfonso XIII as Hotel Prince of Asturias) and return by the Paseo Marítimo de la Playa de la Malagueta.

There is nothing better than delicious torrijas, a typical Easter sweet.

Holy Sunday

If you want to see the Risen Christ you have to go to the Alameda at twelve o’clock in the morning. All the Nazarenes of the different brotherhoods meet here.

There is nothing better than a beer and some tapas in a beach bar to finish off the trip. And what better than a fried Malaga with jureles, prawns, anchovies and squid. Oh, and don’t forget to ask for at least a couple of espetos (sardine skewers).

After such an intense week, you will have become a boquerón (this is the colloquial name given to the people of Malaga), impregnated with the culture, traditions and, above all, typical food of one of the best Holy Week in Spain.

Happy homecoming and see you next year.